“I’ll go first - you see relatives and family friends you didn't even know existed until they pop at your place to celebrate Sakrat from “sheher ki chhat”
By Poorvi Singhal
“Vok Kaatey!” yell many terraces in unison as one kite falters in the Makranti Sakranti sky. As it plummets towards the tightly packed havelis (traditional townhouses) in the walled city, attempts are made using poles, jujjas (stones hung on threads) and jumping kids to capture it. Finally, one boy from atop the water tank seizes the yellow, slightly tattered and taped kite, and claims his position as the bonafide patangbaz (kite-flyer) of the Pink City. He grooves to Kala Chashma chiming from his adjacent terrace while prepping to soar his kite and loot probably five more from it until the sky turns dark and lit-up candles take over.
Such is Makar Sakranti and a few days leading up to it in the walled city of Jaipur. Kites are pegged (tang daalna), looted ones are discreetly stacked in the attic and charkhis (string roll) are loaded before D-day. What’s out of your control is the guest list. There’s an unspoken rule - if you live in the walled city, the terrace is open for all before and on the day of Sakranti, doesn’t matter if you don’t know them. And, you have to (mandatorily) serve the old city’s delicacies- think kachori, samosa, etc.
While you may be in just for the snacks, or a view of the lantern-studded sky, a true ‘shehri’ (resident of the walled city) loves Sakrat for reasons more than one. See for yourself!
“I've always been fond of kites since I was five. So, there's only one festival I wait for all year - that is Makar Sankranti. Every year, all my friends come to my house during this time. We always started our eve with aloo ki kachori from Khunteta or pyaz ki kachori from Samrat and before everyone leaves, we always stop at Sahu Chai Wala for a cup of hot tea. Fireworks on Sakrat are always better than on Diwali. Our relatives and friends from all over Jaipur come to the old city during this week and everyone competes with their neighbours when flying kites and sounds of “voh kaatey” start from six in the morning.” - Gaurang Maharwal
Gaurang Maharwal, 20, student, Kishanpole Bazaar
Mansi Lohia, 22, student, Chaura Rasta
“As someone who's grown up surrounded by these pink walls, Sakrant isn't a one-day festival, it starts right from the beginning of January and reaches its peak on the weekend closest to the 14th. The chaos that is this festival always brings comfort, and the feeling of hope and home is always assured when the lanterns start glowing on the eve of the 14th. The environmentalist in me has only one guilty please and that is this festival. I'm not too big on kite flying, but the festivities, the music and the vibrance that is this festival always make my heart go "voh kaaatey”. - Mansi Lohia
“Sakrant here is a hell lot of fun. Apart from the flying of kites, the gathering of all my family members and friends on the terrace with delicious sweets and snacks with Bollywood songs playing in the background makes it a lot better. Some of us vibe to the music, some just keep flying the beautiful kites, some just lay on the mat and enjoy the sunlight while others collect the kites with long wooden sticks. My favourite part is the night when everyone out there celebrates the end of the festival by bursting crackers. It looks so beautiful. All my family members and I eagerly wait for the night just to capture the beautifully lit sky with all the fireworks. After ending the festival on a lovely note, we all have dinner together.” - Adhishree Khandelwal
Adhishree Khandelwal, 20, student, Jhalaniyon Ka Rasta
”This is the only time of the year when I make an attempt to leave my bed early and hit the terrace. How the morning turns into the night - you will never know because the time you will spend with your cousins and friends flies quickly. And as soon as we stop flying the kites, putting on marwari gaane (songs) and dancing our hearts out is a must to end the night! The walled city is a place where all the traditions and customs of Jaipur are preserved and celebrating Sakrat here makes your heart go all giddy. Seeing up in the sky and spotting multiple colours as songs blaze through your ears - that’s what ‘parkota wali Sakrat’ does to you! It makes you feel peaceful amid the festive chaos.” - Bhavishya Akar
Bhavishya Akar, 18, content writer, Chandpole Bazaar
